Travel

Why Japan Deserves to Top Your Travel Bucket List:

For as long as I can remember, I’ve wanted to go to Japan. I know I’m not alone. When I told my friends we were headed there for a couple of weeks over Easter break, the response was overwhelmingly one of envy. “That’s the number one country on my bucket list!” “I’ve been dying to go there for years,” they said.

I’m no spring chicken. Neither are my friends. I suspect many of them have put off a trip to Japan for so long, in part, because of the perception that a trip to Japan will lead to financial ruin. It’s true that in the 1980’s Japan was prohibitively expensive. But today it’s more affordable to visit than Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, much of Europe and the U.S. Decades of economic stagnation and a weakened Yen have made Japan much more palatable for your pocketbooks.

It helps to book your flights and hotels way in advance (particularly in peak season like March and April when the cherry blossoms bloom) and get the JR Pass, which gives you unlimited access to many of Japan’s trains including the Shinkansen or “bullet train”. Once you’ve got those costs covered, you’re just left with local transportation and dining out. Excellent food can be had for all budgets. Buses and subways are very cheap. So book that flight and make that trip happen because Japan truly is worthy of the top spot on your bucket list! Here’s why:

The Food:

Foodies have long been attracted to Japan. I have one friend who flies there regularly…just to eat. Sushi and sashimi are what Japanese food is most famous for and for good reason. It really is THAT fresh. My aunt famously had a bite of sashimi in Tokyo that was still wiggling (not everyone’s cup of tea, I know).

One hotspot for fresh fish is the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. There are numerous seafood wholesalers, stalls and restaurants serving a wide array of food. The fish is sourced from the Toyosu Market, where the famous tuna auctions occur very early in the morning. It’s a fun place to explore and sample different dishes.

Japan is also famous for its noodle soups. The main three options are udon (thick and chewy), ramen (thin) and soba (buckwheat). They are the perfect comfort food on a cold day. In a country that seems to pride itself on being quiet, it was surprising to learn that slurping the soup as loud as you can is perfectly acceptable and even encouraged. My 9-year-old son was thrilled!

Beef is also big in Japan. Wagyu beef, known for its marbling and rich flavor, is the staple. Kobe is king amongst steak lovers. It’s a variety of Wagyu beef raised under strict standards in the region of Kobe, that has the distinction of being the most marbled beef in the world.

Beyond beef, fish and noodles, there’s so much more to Japanese cuisine but to be expeditious, I’ll just focus on one more dish we loved: okonomiyaki. These savory pancakes made with wheat flour, veggies, meat or seafood and covered with okonomiyaki sauce, Japanese mayo, ginger and bonito flakes are delish. They’re also fun to cook as they’re often made on a communal flat top stove at your table.

The Ryokans (Japanese Inns) and Onsen:

Years ago, when I was living and working at Reuters in New York, a colleague of mine who was raised in Japan told me “you have to experience a night in a ryokan!” Decades later, I did just that. It was one of the most wonderful experiences of our whole trip.

We arrived at our ryokan in Hakone, a hillside region about a two-hour train ride from Tokyo, in the afternoon. There was the usual tea on arrival and then we checked into our room.

It consisted of a large open space with tatami mats and sliding doors. There was also a tub with water sourced from a hot spring (onsen) along with a changing area with a stool and bamboo bucket.

We quickly jumped into the onsen and out again, engaging in the ritual of pouring freezing cold water over our bodies from the bamboo bucket and jumping into the tub again. This hot/cold beating of the body left us exhausted and starving. It was time to get into our yukatas (cotton kimono) and split-toed socks and head down to dinner.

Dinner was a multi-coursed experience. Each guest had their own dining area and waiter. We were server more and more food. It consisted mainly of a mountain of fish, egg and beef.

While we were dining, the staff set up our bedding on the tatami mats and we hit the sack. With relaxed bodies and full bellies, we slept like babies.

The next morning we had another multi-coursed meal in our private dining area. I opted for the Japanese menu, which meant another mountain of fish. By then I was a bit fished out and wished I had picked the western menu for breakfast. Nevertheless, the whole experience was wonderful.

The Bullet Train:

The first time we experienced the Shinkansen was on our journey from Hakone to Kyoto. I was at the station ahead of time with a bunch of American tourists trying to get a video of the thing as one passed by. I assumed I’d hear it before seeing it, giving me time to set up my shot. Wrong.

The first time one zipped past us, the entire group of us gasped. “Where the hell did that thing come from?” we collectively asked. There was no advance warning.

With a top speed of 320 kms/hour, the Shinkansen is like a ninja: silent and deadly fast. China’s Shanghai Maglev train with a top speed of 460 kms/hour may have the distinction of being the world’s fastest train but the Shinkansen is the first high speed rail and became a model for the rest of the world to follow. The view of Mt. Fuji was a treat as was the smooth ride.

The Cherry Blossoms:

I very strategically timed our trip to Japan to coincide with Sakura season. A friend of mine, who lived in Japan for many years, warned me to book all hotels a year in advance because it is THE PEAK travel season in Japan. I followed her advice and didn’t regret it. Japan is indeed packed at that time of year with both international and domestic travelers trying to get a glimpse (and a shot) of the spectacular pink and white blossoms. You can understand why. Entire parks are transformed into a sea of pink.

We were lucky enough to see them in full bloom in Tokyo at the Shinjuku Gyoen National Park as well as at the Philosopher’s Walk in Kyoto a week later.

The Matcha:

The Japanese take their tea very seriously. A tea ceremony is no joke. It’s a long affair and has very strict rules about how you hold the tea cup and how you drink the tea, etc.

Matcha, which is stone-ground powdered green tea, is probably the trendiest Japanese tea right now. There’s a whole ritual to how it’s prepared and it’s drunk in a large matcha bowl. The taste can be bitter, which is why I prefer a matcha latte where you can add a drop of sweetener. Purists – don’t be hating on me!

Matcha can be found everywhere in Japan. There’s matcha ice-cream, matcha mochi, matcha cookies and matcha cake. At first, I thought it was overkill. Now I’m a total devotee.

Getting Lost in Translation:

Japan is notorious for being difficult to navigate. It’s no exaggeration. Other than France, I’ve never met a population that speaks less English. Even people who work in tourism speak very little English and don’t get me started about the signage at train stations, subways and bus stops.

But don’t get me wrong, I don’t see this as a negative. It’s part of what makes visiting Japan so thrilling. You have to survive by your wits (and the help of google maps). It forces you to rely on the kindness of strangers and communicate in whatever way possible including sign language and re-enactments. It’s like playing an international game of charades. The Japanese are exceedingly polite and were very happy to point us in the right direction when they understood what I was trying to say! It can be challenging at times but then it’s also highly rewarding when you discover you are indeed on the right train! Success!!

The Temples:

Traveling in Japan is much like traveling in Europe. There are markers of the past everywhere. In Europe it’s ruins. In Japan, it’s chockablock with temples. Traveling with a nine-year-old old boy meant I had to be VERY selective to avoid burnout. It was an exercise in restraint because they are so breathtaking and each one is unique. There are two main types of temples in Japan: Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples.

The first place of worship we visited was Senso-ji in Tokyo. It’s a massive Buddhist temple that was completed in 628 making it the city’s oldest temple. More than 30 million people reportedly visit Senso-ji every year, which is why it has been called the most visited sacred site in the world.

Our visit was quite interactive. You can inhale incense from a massive bowl, pick a scroll to see if you are destined for good fortune and have a priest recite your name to make your wish come true.

Our next visit was to Fushimi Inari – a Shinto shrine in Kyoto. Shintoism is Japan’s earliest religion. It also has the most adherents with Buddhism a close second. Many people in Japan follow both faiths. A marker of a Shinto shrine is the vermillion tori or gates that symbolize the entrance to the spiritual world.

Fushimi Inari sits at the base of a mountain. It takes about two hours to hike to the top (we didn’t make it all the way). The faith is heavily focused on our relationship to nature.

The Obsession With Cute Things:

Everyone knows that the Japanese are gaga about Hello Kitty. But who knew they’re also crazy about Snoopy, Miffy and a whole cast of other cute characters. There’s a name for this in Japan. It’s called “Kawaii”, which basically means cute things. The obsession with cute things reportedly emerged in Japan in the 1970s. It’s gone on overdrive since then. Even my 9-year-old son finds the whole thing comical.

You’ll see grown adults line up for over an hour to purchase a dessert with an image of Miffy on it. It’s a cartoon rabbit created by a Dutch artist that is very popular with kids in many parts of the world. Her trademark is a little X for a mouth.

I view the numerous cat cafes as part of Kawaii. We visited one in Tokyo as many locals do. The “experience” includes buying some cat food and feeding and petting the cats for about 30 minutes. They were admittedly very cute and we left with a warm and fuzzy feeling. I see the appeal. There are also hedgehog, dog, micro pig and snake cafes in Japan. I guess everyone has a different definition of cute.

The Geishas and Teahouses:

“Memoirs of a Geisha” was a best-seller for good reason. There is great mystery and intrigue surrounding geisha culture, which still exists in Japan today.

The reported number of geishas working today is around 1000 – a massive drop from the roughly 80,000 in the Edo period (1603-1886). The majority of them are trained and work at tea houses in Kyoto. It’s challenging but not impossible to arrange a meeting with a geisha. An introduction from another client is usually required but some tour agencies can coordinate an encounter.

Just walking around the neighborhoods geishas frequent is a charming experience. It’s full of dark wood tea houses where you can drink, dine and shop.

The Natural Beauty:

In many parts of Japan, I felt like we were living in a fairy tale. The natural beauty in both the cities and the surrounding regions are breathtaking. The Japanese clearly prioritize their green spaces and it shows.

Parks in Tokyo like Shinjuku Gyoen are heavily manicured with a variety of sections highlighting different types of trees, flowers and shrubs. There are areas to unwind and have a meal or a cup of tea while escaping city life.

For a fuller immersion into Japan’s natural beauty we headed to Hakone – home to mountains, rivers and hot springs about a two-hour train ride from Tokyo. The whole area is a feast for the eyes and a perfect place to strap on some hiking boots and hit the paths.

The area also features world class museums including a modern open-air sculpture museum that works in tandem with the natural landscape

Another prime spot to observe Japan’s natural beauty is in Arashiyama – a suburb of Kyoto. It’s home to a bamboo forest, temple gardens, park with a river and more. It’s probably my favorite spot in Japan. Can you blame me?

Here’s the thing about Japan…there’s something for everyone: the foodies, the culture vultures, the outdoorsy types, the creatives, the techies will all find joy in this country that is a mish/mash of the old and new.

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